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My BMW V12 Engine on a hoist. I spent the day steam cleaning it. I bought it off Ebay and have all the ancillaries (not mounted) as well as complete loom and ECU's)
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| My BMW V12 Engine on a Hoist- shot fron tne Dizzy side(this side will be against the firewall bulkhead)-again most Ancillaries are missing here
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| My BMW V12 Engine and Trolly- Due to its size and bulk (plus the fact I had only borrowed the hoist) I decided to make a trolly to wheel the engine around as needed. I welded up some 2"x1" box steel and added sections to mount trolly wheels. Works well and is very strong.
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| Ancillaries and Brackets - I decided to take a break from bodywork and cleaned up some of the associated ancillaries and brackets for tghe engine. Most were dirty so a quick cycle in the dishwasher, followed by a sandblast did the trick. Here are just some of the pieces. At this stage I etch primered them all (seen above) before giving them all a coat with aluminium high temperature paint.
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| Another shot of the cleaning and prep of the engine parts. Here you can see from top moving clockwise- Oil Filter housing, Aircon pump mounting bracket, 2x brackets for the belt tensioners, thermostat cover, Alternator positioning brackets and water pump in the middle.
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I decided to overhall the Alternator while I was at it. Here it is all in pieces. Again I diswashered the aluminium parts and painted these. I cleaned up the core and terminals before reassembling the whole thing.
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| Alternator- Here it is all cleaned, painted and reassembled.
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| Gently does it- lifting it off my purpose built engine trolly.
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| Up up and away- Due to the distance involved in dropping the engine into the Diablo- (It has to be done from the back and you can't get the hoist in close)- I made up an additional extender bar for the engine hoist seen in the picture above (the black bar) to give me the desired distance needed. This however meant that the weight shifts too far forward requiring a mate to stand on the back of the hoist to prevent it toppeling over! Don't move Alan!
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| Carefully Dropping the engine in place. The use of an engine leveller here is invaluable.
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It's a big old lump but goes in a treat. You can see though just how far back it sits compared to the access point!!! Its a long engine bay but with care you can get the engine in even with the engine cover still attached. I'll remember that if I need to remove the engine at some future date when the car is finished.
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| Engine going in with the hoist needing to access from the back. After removing the old V8 engine mountings (see sub album ref chassis modification) and adding the V12 ones, I needed to place the engine in the car ready for my house move.... It has stood on my garage floor for 3 years until this point!!!
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| A further 2 years pass...... work on other areas of the car took precedent but finally I've now started (April 2010) to strip and rebuild the engine. Remember, all I've done to this point is steam cleaned it 5 years ago!!!!!!!!!. Here you can see the akward bolts to the right DK motor being undone.
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| Left side DK motor removed. Notice the flap and spring mechanism and the perished hose. Both sides snapped when removed, but I shall be replacing these anyway as a matter of course.
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| Here you can see where the perished hose fits. It leads to a one way valve.
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DK motor in half. Interestingly I had trouble removing the retaining screws that hold both the 2 halves and retaining plates together as they were of a tamper proof design. These will be replaced.I need to clean the flap to ensure it opens and closes freely.
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| DK motor- same half showing the other side and encoder wiper arm. I took this for reference to ensure it was repositioned in exactly the same place when reassembling. Note the hole on the right that takes the bottom of the armature that fits agains a cog to turn the flap. The cog can just be seen here.
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| The other half of the DK motor. The armature spindle housed on the left to fit against the cog referred to in the last picture and the larger hole to accomodate the encoder wiper arm on the track via 2 sets of brushes on the arm.
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| Same half of the DK motor. The cap and clips removed to access the armature and graphite brushes.
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| With the cap removed, this is what you will see. (Armature removed from the hole in the right) Be careful removing the armature as the brushes are spring loaded and the armature has a tendancy to try to come away in the cap due to the strong magnets contained therein. I found the best way was to lift the cap carefully and gently pull the brushes back with a small screwdriver and lift out. Careful- DO NOT DAMAGE THE BRUSHES! Next remove the retaining screws to the plastic housing seen here. It has a tendancy to stick. Be gently or the brittle plastic will break and these units come as a whole. THERE ARE NO SEPARATE PARTS YOU CAN ORDER. BE WARNED!!
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Album: 
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