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43-Engine lid-Engine Lid with third brake light fitted. This needed reworking (denoted by the white filler) to build up the underside and make a nice flat line. Bottom is still bowed though and needs more work.
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| 80-Engine cover bowing fix-I had to clamp and apply a heat gun and plenty of bricks to the lid, as it bowed up at the back. I also made the bar across the back. This will hold the lock.
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| 77-Engine cover hinges-Ohh FFS. No metal in the right place on the engine cover either!!! Nothing for it but to cut and fit my own. Grrr....
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| 44-Roof intakes-Loads of work will be needed here along the roof and engine lid shut lines. *Sigh*
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| 78-Engine lid rear shut lines-mmm- LOTS of work is going to be needed around the engine lid shut lines.
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79-Engine lid top shut lines-After a bit of filing the shut line around the roof was ok though. Clears the roof nicely- though I needed to take the edge back a few mm to clear.
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| 40-Rear taped-I had to pull and hold the rear deck lid out with a bar for the correct line. I will later glass underneath for better support. This was a trial and the whole lot will have to come off again.
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| 41-Rear with spoiler placed- ok well I had to see what it looked like didn't I!
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| 203- Reworked underside of exhaust cover- I've also been working on a way of fixing the rear exhaust cover securely and making it look close to the original. Here I've made up and welded a bracket assembly and glassed this to the cover- this added strength as well as keeping the shape better.
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| 204- Rear exhaust cover on its side. I'll add a further bracket to the front edge that will be seen in the engine bay- and this will complete the look of the original. Then cover with heat sheild of course.
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205- I wanted some way of fixing the cover so that it was removable, after studying various slides/picures of the original, I decided on a way where I could slide my cover back into 2 locating holes securing the back end, and this coupled with some original fixings on the front, make for an authentic looking, and very strong mounting. This required the welding of the above locating bars to the underside of my cover, joining on to the arrangement I fabricated earlier.
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| 206- Welding two tabs to the rear rail to locate the bar completed the process on the rear end.
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| This is where my prior planning on what I wanted my final look to be pays dividends. I ordered two original mountings for the front of the cover as these will be seen inside the engine bay. It was then simply a case of drilling a fixing position through my prefabricated arrangement to create a set of front mountings.
Viewed: 343 times.
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| Here you can see the mountings in place. Front to bolt, rear to locate. Coupled with the fact these are bolted to the chassis, through my glassed in fabrication, which in turn bolts to the spoiler, means that that bloody great rear wing has no change of vacating itself from my car going down the motorway. This would always have been a worry if I simply drilled through the fibreglass, mounted the wing and held the rear cover to the car with a couple of self tappers. You know me by now... I don't do things by half!!
Viewed: 355 times.
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| After fitting my cover, I did not like the movement in the center at the engine lid side. I felt this was excessive and would cause possible vibration at speed. To cure this required a further modification. I welded a further steel bar across the cover, again atttached to my orginal fabrication. At first I tried to bend the bay to take up the curves in the cover, but simply could not get these tight enough in my vice, so I finally decided to cut the bar into sections and welded it in the shape you see here. After glassing to the cover I found I had cured the problem. Funny that!
Viewed: 223 times.
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While in the area, I decided to modify the lines where the engine lid meets the chassis rails. It was too big on the drivers side so I proceeded to extend this by sanding out a grove in the cover and adding fibreglass matting to extend this further. Adding filler/paste to an edge would have simply broken away. The area was then made good again.
Viewed: 212 times.
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| In my crusade for an authentic look, one thing about the engine cover for me stood out with the cars I've seen. The locking position and mounts. Whilst not an issue when closed, Parallel's solution of a single, mid mounted lock and striker on the engine lid clearly was not going to be my way of doing it! To me it looks totally wrong so I set about a more authentic look. Building an SV I had 2 choices. Pin mountings attached through the cover via special locks as seen on pre98 SV's or hidden 'bear claw' latches and strikers. As I've fixed headlights as per the 99 SV style, I opted for the hidden arrangement. Here is an orignal striker mounted to my cover.
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| Me being me, the striker detailed previously required a 'bear claw' catch to fix into. As I seem to like creating work for myself, this resulted in me having to again fabricate and weld in locating assemblies on both sides for these latches. These are welded to the chassis rails. The drivers side can be seen here. I drilled locating holes and welded captive nuts to ease assembly. No messing about with dropped nuts for me!
Viewed: 192 times.
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| Again I used orginal catches (not bloody cheap I can tell you!) as well as orginal cables to link them to the door pull. Here is the whole thing in situ. As this will be seen from the engine bay I hope this will help create the illusion of a real car. No giveaways signs, thats my aim!
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| Just a close up shot of my final arrangement for the locking of the engine lid.
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